Ok took the truck around the neighborhood twice ... about 2 and a half miles and I let it sit in the driveway for another 15 minutes or so. No water leak! But, the temp only got to about 135° and would not get any hotter. Good, bad ... I don't know, but at least the radiator is holding the water for now.
I did hear a lot of transmission whine, but I know there is an issue with the throw out bearing and or clutch adjustment (see older post). In short I can hear the bearing while in neutral and when I push in the clutch I hear a higher pitched whine. It seems to go through the gears ok, other than reverse grinds a bit on occasion. Problem for another day!
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Radiator problem
Well I got the engine back together and I still had water gushing from the radiator! Crap ... so as you see from below I went on to do a little metal work to get away from the engine for a while.
I spent most of the holidays working on the tail gate. It is getting better with heat and hammer but still has a long ways to go ... the good news is this is the worst of the body work as far as dents go. I do not plan on getting it perfect but better. The pictures may look like its getting worse but really it's not, I promise LOL.
Yesterday I thought I would try out my fiber sanding wheel on the drill ...it works great! I went back over the passenger side bed panel and removed most of the major rust right behind the tire. I also revisited the top rail and the side panel parts I had already done. I brought one short section of the running board to bare metal as well. The wheel still has some material left but I will be getting a couple more of these.
Now the engine .... OK, no water in the oil so far after a lot of run time, does not overheat (stays right at 180°), not seeing any unusual smoke from the exhaust ... so what the hell?
I know it needs a water pump, it is leaking from the weep hole. That will be sometime in the next week or so.
Then I thought, maybe the Flathead radiator has some weird construction property that wont allow me to get cross flow the way I have it hooked up. When I got the truck both hoses where on the passenger side of the radiator. So I made a diagram and asked on the trusty HAMB site:
Well they confirmed I should not have an issue with this configuration and I thought that would be the case. So this morning I took the thermostat out and top off the fluid at that location and put the hose back on. I then filled the radiator up and started her up. I could see the water circulating and everything seems to be fine. The truck never got up to temp, so I really wont know until I take it outside and run it enough to heat up to see what happens. I will probably do that after this post.
I also boiled the thermostat with a thermometer and it appears to open between 180° and 200° ... closer to 200° I think. I will have to do it again to confirm. Closer to 200 would probably not be ideal for this truck since it never seems to go over 180°. I think what is happening is a combination of the thermostat and the water pump, but I can not be sure just yet.
I am posting a picture of the water pump for my own use, but enjoy LOL
After looking online it seems I will just be getting the pump part that the fan bolts onto and no the whole assembly ... I tried to remove this when the truck was in VA to replace the gasket without any luck. I did not try too hard because I did not want to break a bolt. Maybe with it mounted on the engine I will be able to get more leverage on it to break them loose. Crossing my fingers ... don't want to have to hunt down the whole thing!
I spent most of the holidays working on the tail gate. It is getting better with heat and hammer but still has a long ways to go ... the good news is this is the worst of the body work as far as dents go. I do not plan on getting it perfect but better. The pictures may look like its getting worse but really it's not, I promise LOL.
Yesterday I thought I would try out my fiber sanding wheel on the drill ...it works great! I went back over the passenger side bed panel and removed most of the major rust right behind the tire. I also revisited the top rail and the side panel parts I had already done. I brought one short section of the running board to bare metal as well. The wheel still has some material left but I will be getting a couple more of these.
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| The camera picks up rust I can hardly see LOL |
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| Ready for the sanding wheel |
Now the engine .... OK, no water in the oil so far after a lot of run time, does not overheat (stays right at 180°), not seeing any unusual smoke from the exhaust ... so what the hell?
I know it needs a water pump, it is leaking from the weep hole. That will be sometime in the next week or so.
Then I thought, maybe the Flathead radiator has some weird construction property that wont allow me to get cross flow the way I have it hooked up. When I got the truck both hoses where on the passenger side of the radiator. So I made a diagram and asked on the trusty HAMB site:
Well they confirmed I should not have an issue with this configuration and I thought that would be the case. So this morning I took the thermostat out and top off the fluid at that location and put the hose back on. I then filled the radiator up and started her up. I could see the water circulating and everything seems to be fine. The truck never got up to temp, so I really wont know until I take it outside and run it enough to heat up to see what happens. I will probably do that after this post.
I also boiled the thermostat with a thermometer and it appears to open between 180° and 200° ... closer to 200° I think. I will have to do it again to confirm. Closer to 200 would probably not be ideal for this truck since it never seems to go over 180°. I think what is happening is a combination of the thermostat and the water pump, but I can not be sure just yet.
I am posting a picture of the water pump for my own use, but enjoy LOL
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| You can see where it has been leaking (brown area) |
After looking online it seems I will just be getting the pump part that the fan bolts onto and no the whole assembly ... I tried to remove this when the truck was in VA to replace the gasket without any luck. I did not try too hard because I did not want to break a bolt. Maybe with it mounted on the engine I will be able to get more leverage on it to break them loose. Crossing my fingers ... don't want to have to hunt down the whole thing!
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Tuesday, December 21, 2011
Spent the morning cleaning up the garage. Then I connected the throttle linkage, and connected the gas pedal back up.
Then I stripped the paint off of the crappy looking steering column. I took a before picture but it did not show up :O( So here are the after.
Once I cleaned it all up I put it back in the truck, but I have not tightened anything up yet.
Then I stripped the paint off of the crappy looking steering column. I took a before picture but it did not show up :O( So here are the after.
Once I cleaned it all up I put it back in the truck, but I have not tightened anything up yet.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Monday Madness ....
Well not really .... Got the intake manifold gaskets made and installed the intake. Made a new carburetor gasket and installed the carb, alternator bracket, alternator, belt and carb springs. I also connected the driver side exhaust, got the solenoid bolted back down and connected the plug wires.
I still need to connect the passenger side exhaust and drain the old contaminated oil. Then I have to run the throttle shaft back out the fire wall and connect it and put the steering back together. Add a little water and she will be ready to fire!
I took a little time and worked on the tailgate some more. Nowhere near done but a big improvement.
As you can see there is a big difference, but lots more metal work to be done! This is fun stuff compared to the engine work!!
More pictures of the engine just for fun. Taken today after getting everything back together.
I still need to connect the passenger side exhaust and drain the old contaminated oil. Then I have to run the throttle shaft back out the fire wall and connect it and put the steering back together. Add a little water and she will be ready to fire!
I took a little time and worked on the tailgate some more. Nowhere near done but a big improvement.
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| Before today |
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| After today |
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| Before |
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| After |
More pictures of the engine just for fun. Taken today after getting everything back together.
Sunday......
Got the driver side head off and back on.
Today I have to get some more gasket material for the intake gaskets and pick up fresh oil.
The hardest part of this is bolting the exhaust back to the exhaust manifold. Hard to get to and since the muffler shop built them on the truck they spring away from the manifold once they are unbolted making it hard to line them back up. I may wait until all else is done and then pull it up on ramps to allow me better access. I may even unbolt the exhaust from the mufflers so it will move a bit easier.
Today I have to get some more gasket material for the intake gaskets and pick up fresh oil.
The hardest part of this is bolting the exhaust back to the exhaust manifold. Hard to get to and since the muffler shop built them on the truck they spring away from the manifold once they are unbolted making it hard to line them back up. I may wait until all else is done and then pull it up on ramps to allow me better access. I may even unbolt the exhaust from the mufflers so it will move a bit easier.
Sunday, December 19, 2010
Saturday
Saturday I pulled the head on the passenger side and cleaned off the copper spray from the previous install. I decided not to use it on this install.
Put the new gasket on, installed the head, push rods and the rocker assembly. I still need to torque the rocker bolts and hook the exhaust back up this morning and then I will move to the other side.
I have a new rocker stud, for the driver side, on the way from a fellow HAMBer (Thank You, Thank You!! Pete).
Took my recycle oil to the auto parts store yesterday as well, so I would have empty containers for draining the contaminated oil from the 35.
Back to the garage!
Put the new gasket on, installed the head, push rods and the rocker assembly. I still need to torque the rocker bolts and hook the exhaust back up this morning and then I will move to the other side.
I have a new rocker stud, for the driver side, on the way from a fellow HAMBer (Thank You, Thank You!! Pete).
Took my recycle oil to the auto parts store yesterday as well, so I would have empty containers for draining the contaminated oil from the 35.
Back to the garage!
Friday, December 17, 2010
Back in town.... Back to work!
I received the gaskets while I was away, now to get them on the truck!
Drained the water and removed the alternator, belt and bottom radiator hose. Also removed the accelerator rod and the intake manifold.
This weekend I will hopefully remove the heads.
Drained the water and removed the alternator, belt and bottom radiator hose. Also removed the accelerator rod and the intake manifold.
This weekend I will hopefully remove the heads.
Thursday, December 2, 2010
This weeks problems.....
I knew I should not have used those old gaskets ... but what the hell, it did not cost me anything but time to try it out ..... water in the oil ....ordered the new gaskets tonight. I wont bore you with the same ole same ole so I will post with results!
I did learn from a MOPAR guy on the H.A.M.B that I should blow out all of the bolt holes on the block and wet the bolts before installing the heads. Your not suppose to install the bolts "dry".
I also confirmed that the bolt torque should be done in a outward spiral and start with 45 lbs then 65 lbs and finally 85 lbs. Run it a bit then recheck them. This is how I did mine, so no issue there.
Also gasket material for a normal application is optional, but I did go with the metal sandwich type that is on there now. 26. each from an eBay seller N.O.S.
I did learn from a MOPAR guy on the H.A.M.B that I should blow out all of the bolt holes on the block and wet the bolts before installing the heads. Your not suppose to install the bolts "dry".
I also confirmed that the bolt torque should be done in a outward spiral and start with 45 lbs then 65 lbs and finally 85 lbs. Run it a bit then recheck them. This is how I did mine, so no issue there.
Also gasket material for a normal application is optional, but I did go with the metal sandwich type that is on there now. 26. each from an eBay seller N.O.S.
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
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